Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city is no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children are reluctant to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these tales and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.